Ok, so I have to admit that I like instant gratification.  I am not the most patient person in the world, so when I start a project, I like to be able to finish it fairly fast - even more so when my sewing time is limited by small children!  The other day I was watching said small children make a big mess with Vegemite on toast (yes, I am that much of a dinky-di, true blue Aussie) and thought “Gee it would be nice if they had something more than just a bib, something to protect their sleeves as well....  Hang on a sec, PUL sleeve covers!!!”  They could be made out of any fabric, but PUL protects from moisture (aka puddles from spilled drinks) as well as food and crumbs.  They don’t have to be limited to mealtimes, they would also be useful for messy play with paint, playdough etc.  They also don’t have to be limited to being worn on sleeves.  Make another larger, longer pair to wear over trousers for rainy days when it is mandatory to jump in puddles.

Anyway, without further ado....Sleeve Guards!!

NOTE: For your convenience, we have converted and included measurements from centimetres to inches for this tutorial.

Project requirements:

• Plain paper to make up your template
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Measuring tape
• PUL, 8”-12” (20-30 cm) depending on desired length of Sleeve Guards
• FOE
• Thread
• Embellishments, optional
• Glue stick, if using tags for embellishment
• Small, messy child :)

Step 1.  You need three measurements: (A) around the wrist of intended wearer, (B) the length that you want the sleeve guards to be and (C) the measurement around the top of the arm where you want the Sleeve Guard to end.  When you take the upper measurement, make sure you take it over the clothes that the child normally wears when they are eating, otherwise the Sleeve Guards may end up being too tight or too loose.  Too loose isn’t so bad because the PUL is firm enough that it won’t collapse down their arm, but too tight will be a problem.

For this tutorial my daughter’s measurements are approximately: A= 5” (12cm), B= 8” (20cm), C= 7” (18cm).

Now for a little math: Take half of the wrist measurement and then add your preferred seam allowance (I used approximately 3/8” (1cm metric). Being from Australia, I think in metric and that’s a really easy seam allowance to use with my sewing machine feet) plus an amount for wearing ease (I used ¾” (2 cm) but you can use whatever amount you like).  Do the same for the upper arm measurement.

So for my daughter this becomes 3½” (6+1+2=9 cm) for the bottom measurement (we’ll call this D) and 4¾” (9+1+2 cm) for the top measurement (we’ll call this E)

Step 2.  On the bottom edge of your plain paper, measuring from the side edge, mark measurement D (bottom measurement).  Now, along the side edge of the paper, measure up and mark the preferred length of the Sleeve Guard (B).  Finally, where you’ve marked the Sleeve Guard length, measure across your paper again marking measurement E (top measurement).

Step 3.  While your head is full of numbers, mark on your pattern the amount of FOE you will need.  For this, simply use the original wrist and upper arm measurements, adding ¾” (2cm) to each one for your seam allowance.

Here is the pattern I drew for my daughter:

Step 4.  Lay out your fabric so that it has a vertical fold in it.  Place the long, straight edge (not the angled one) of your pattern on the fold and cut out the Sleeve Guard.  Repeat so that you have a pair.

Sleeve Guard cut out and laid flat: 

Step 5.  Measure and mark your FOE. I have marked my seam allowance on each end so that I know where to stop and start stretching when sewing.  I only mark one piece of FOE at a time and don’t cut it off my roll so that I don’t have to try to hang on to a tiny tip of FOE when I get to the end of my sewing.  I cut it after I have finished sewing the FOE on.

This piece is for my wrist edge:

Step 6.  Fold your FOE in half along the fold line, sandwiching your PUL between the FOE with the edge of the PUL resting up against the fold line, and stitch.

Don’t stretch the FOE in the seam allowance, just in the main length of the FOE.  I have used pink thread for contrast so that you can see where I have stitched.  Also, I have chosen to use a straight stitch because I hate seam-ripping a 3-step-zig-zag, but it does mean that you can see where I went a little crooked. Use whatever stitch you prefer.

Step 7.  Repeat for the top edge.  When marking my FOE for the top edge I also marked the midway point and then marked the midway point on the PUL so that I could make sure I stretched the FOE evenly.

Step 8.  Fold the Sleeve Guard, right sides together, and stitch up the side seam.

Step 9. Trim or serge the side seam, if you like, and turn right side out.

Step 10.  Repeat steps 4-9 to make as many Sleeve Guards as you need.

Pair, inside out, side seam serged. Ta daa!!

Modelling shots:

Now, let’s make a prettier pair!!

Step 4a. Choose a tag, pop a dab of glue on the back of tag and stick tag on to PUL.  Stitch around tag to secure it, using either a straight stitch or narrow zig-zag.

Continue on as per normal.  This time I used thread that matched my FOE.